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Building Tips
Cutting and Sanding
 | When cutting out fins for assembly, make a main
template first. I usually take a scrap piece of balsa and make one template
that I use to trace out all of my fins. I usually take the paper template and
with a glue stick, attach the pattern to the scrap balsa. The resulting
template is more accurate than a paper
template and I'll always have it for future repairs! Needless
to say, I always have scrap balsa laying around. |
| Pick up a large steel ruler at your local discount
hardware store. They make cutting balsa much easier. Choose one that's at
least 24 inches long. |
| When cutting balsa along the grain, if there is any
angle to the grain be sure that it runs toward your ruler to keep the blade
from veering off as you cut. |
| The next time you are in the paint department of
your local store, take a good look at all the sandpaper products that are
available. Foam block or foam backed sandpaper is great for compound curves
such as nose cones and fins. |
| Always use a dust mask when sanding. Paint particles
and even balsa dust can be hazardous to your health. |
| There are several methods for sealing and sanding
balsa. I use Elmer's sandable wood filler. Some people refer to it as Fill and
Sand but you can't miss it when you're in the wood filler section of your
local hardware store. I comes in a plastic tube or tub, and also comes in
either brown or white. Get the white as it is easier to prime over. To use
this stuff you simply use it straight out of the tub with either your finger
or a small spackle knife. I use a little water to help it flow. Use your pinky
finger to make nice smooth fillets. Practice on some scrap balsa so you get
the feel of it. Let dry completely and sand. Repeat process until all grain is
filled. You can even use it on Body tubes! |
| Need an alternative to sealing fins with CA glue?
Try using a 50/50 solution of water and white glue applied with a artist
brush. Be sure to do this lightly as it may create some warping if your not
careful. |
Body Tubes
| KEVLAR FOR RECOVERY-In
almost all of my kits, I utilize .035 width Kevlar thread. It's more durable
than the normal stock paper anchor, and allows the elastic cord to be placed
farther "downstream" from the heat source as well. To accomplish this during
motor mount assembly, simply take a piece of Kevlar (.035) and wrap around the
motor and thread it forward. Glue it in place and tie the other end to the
elastic shock cord. I usually feed it out the back to tie it to the elastic
cord before I thread the whole thing forward. This allows you to tie the
Kevlar to the shock cord and keep the knot inside the when everything is
threaded forward. Buy a 2-3 foot length of angle stock in various
widths. The make great straight edges when marking fin lines. A door jamb will
do in a pinch...just make sure it's straight first! |
| Coat the ends of body tubes with CA glue. This will
stiffen them and keep them from crimping. |
| Need to cut a body tube? Make a mark as to where you
need to make the cut and wrap a piece of card stock around the mark and hold
it in place with a piece of tape. The, using a a razor, roll the tube away
from you as you hold the blade against the edge of the cardstock. Start
slowing and press lightly at first. It may take a few tries to this technique
right, but once you do, it come sin real handy! |
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For More Information Contact:
Thrustline Aerospace
PO BOX 2111, Amherst, MA. 01002
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